1.Prologue
For this fourth article in our series on Yoyogi-Koen/Oku-Shibu gourmet spots, we’ll be featuring establishments that focus on a specific food or cuisine that are each worth seeking out as destinations in and of themselves. From a long-established restaurant that’s been around since before the neighborhood started being called “Oku-Shibu" to newcomers that have quickly become the talk of the town, these seven places have that special something that will keep you coming back for more. Recently the neighborhood has become a popular weekend destination for people from all around the city and its surrounding areas. If you’re weary of lines, plan to visit on a weekday.
2.SHIBUYA CHEESE STAND
Shibuya Cheese Stand opened opposite NHK Broadcasting Center’s West Gate in 2012. This cheese specialty house aims to bring the kind of fresh cheese you’d associate with countryside dairy farms to urban consumers. Their rich, milky cheese is made on the premises daily without the use of preservatives or additives of any kind.
The menu includes a variety of sandwiches and pizza, with the option to add cheese by paying a little extra. For dinner, order one of the excellent cheese platters and enjoy along with some wine.
The ricotta and mozzarella have won numerous awards at cheese events both at home and abroad, but the to-die-for highlight is the burrata fruit plate (price varies). Burrata cheese—consisting of a mozzarella pouch filled with fresh cream—is paired with seasonal fruit for a delectable balance of sweet and sour.
Recently they’ve opened up a second store, & Cheese Stand, along the one-way Kamiyama-cho street that leads to Tokyu Bunkamura. Customers can buy a variety of fresh cheeses to go. If you’re hungry for a snack, try the fresh mozzarella burger (640 yen plus tax), which features two mozzarella “buns". Both establishments have a giant white cow sculpture grazing out in front.
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SHIBUYA CHEESE STAND
& CHEESE STAND
3.ARMS
Arms is a gourmet burger restaurant that opened just outside the west side of Yoyogi Park in 2005.
The burgers are made with scrumptious homemade buns and a golden balance of patty and toppings, and are substantial but never overwhelming. My favorite is the avocado mushroom cheeseburger (1,100 yen plus tax). Whenever I take one of my American friends, I always recommend the patty melt (1,100 yen plus tax), or the tuna melt (950 yen plus tax), both American staples, and both hard to come by in Japan.
The interior resembles an old-fashioned, classic burger joint, complete with weathered furniture and decor that create a warm, inviting atmosphere. Dogs (on leashes) are allowed, and on weekends I see many pet owners coming from—or getting ready to go to—Yoyogi Park to take their dog for a walk.
Take out is available at the Parkside Burger Shop by Yoyogi Park’s parking lot, but I often take advantage of the take out and delivery-only spot along the Tomigaya 1-chome shopping street. The place is very popular among creatives working in the area. On the weekends, it’s a great place to swing by before heading out for a picnic at the park.
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ARMS Park Side Burger Shop
ARMS Take Out & Delivery
4.365 Jours
365, located a minute away from Yoyogi-Hachiman Station along Odakyu Line and Yoyogi-Koen Station along Tokyo Metro—is a “select shop for food" that seeks to enrich the lives of its customers. Their bread is made using organic ingredients and baked with care, and true to its select shop concept, also on display are other products like rice and vegetables from all over Japan.
The greatest thing about this bakery is the sheer variety of bread available—you could come every day and never grow tired of the offerings. Popular items include the croissants (230 yen plus tax) and the curry pan (270 yen plus tax), but the highlights are the craquant chocolat (290 yen plus tax), a bun stuffed with small round chocolates, and the lemon-milk French roll (220 yen plus tax). The most popular offerings often sell out. Other than the sweet bread, there are also a number of savory and snack breads. Each on its own is a little on the small side, but plenty rich in terms of flavor. Try out an assortment of their different items.
Another one of the bakery’s signature products is its pain de mie, which comes in a number of varieties, each made using a different blend of domestically-produced flour.
The bakery has a counter with a few seats, and customers can enjoy a tasty cup of coffee along with oven-fresh bread. Early risers will want to check out the breakfast menu.
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5.Sekiguchitei
Sekiguchitei is located just around the corner from the Natural Lawson convenience store opposite Yoyogi-Hachiman Station and Yoyogi-Koen Station (Hachiman exit). The yoshoku restaurant (Japanese-style western cuisine) has been a favorite of locals since it first opened in 1994.
The yoshoku staples are all good, such as the naporitan (a Japanese-style tomato-based spaghetti stir-fried with vegetables), and the omu-rice (omelet over fried rice). But the signature dishes are the stews (especially the beef stew, 3,000 yen plus tax) and the hamburg steak (1,500 yen plus tax) and other meat dishes. The hand-pressed patty has a distinct texture that many locals swear by.
All in all the Western-style dishes are prepared for Japanese tastes, and the lunch set meals (all between 1,000 and 1,500 yen, plus tax) all come with rice, miso soup, and salad. The rice especially has a reputation for being excellent, and paired with the hamburg is a match made in heaven. This place will have you wanting to come back time and time again.
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Sekiguchitei
6.Spice Post
The rich flavor of spices and the friendly staff at this curry rice purveyor will have hooked from your first visit. Word of this small establishment (counter seating, with one table in the back for four) has quickly spread to curry fans far and wide, and come lunch you can expect a line to get in almost daily.
The menu varies by day, but on most days consists of three types of curry—usually chicken, keema (ground meat), and pork. First timers should try the ai-gake, which is rice topped with two types of curry (1,000-1,300 yen, depending on the combination). You can specify how much rice you want: order the S size and ask for up to 200 g, order the M and ask for up to 400 g.
The place opens at 9:00 A.M., and it’s not unusual to see eager beavers chowing down a curry for a late breakfast. As the morning wears on, the aroma of spices starts to spread, causing passersby to reflexively perk up and cast their eyes towards the big red sign out in front. At least one of the curries will usually sell out in the early afternoon, and sometimes they will completely sell out and have to close up shop early. Be sure to head over as early as possible. Take out is available.
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SPICE POST
7.Yoyonam
Yoyonam is a restaurant serving Vietnamese cuisine and wine on the west side of Yoyogi Park. A two-story residential house has been renovated into a cozy dining establishment, with counter seating and tables on the first floor and a private room on the second. With a gravel path leading to the entrance, blue tiled kitchen, and the sound of the Odakyu Line passing by as a backdrop, Yoyonam was designed to evoke a Vietnamese restaurant in Paris, a cozy escape from reality.
The dishes are made using Japanese fresh produce and Vietnamese condiments, and go fantastically with the selection of natural wines. The crispy bánh xèo (1,800 yen plus tax) consists of crisp vegetables, homemade salt-cured pork, and shrimp wrapped up in a rice flour pancake. The fresh spring rolls (450 yen each, plus tax) are served with either lightly sweet nước chấm (a fish-sauce based Vietnamese dipping sauce) or a homemade almond paste. The restaurant uses no synthetic seasonings, and instead provides a bounty of vegetables.
There are set meals for lunch, but my favorite is the bánh mì (Vietnamese sandwiches). Noodle and rice dish options are also available. The lunch options are all around 1,200-1,300 yen.
Side note, the name Yoyonam is a portmanteau of Yoyogi and the Vietnamese word for five (the address is Yoyogi 5-chome).
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Yoyonam
8.CAMELBACK Rich Valley
Camelback Rich Valley, which opened near Yoyogi-Hachiman Station/Yoyogi-Koen Station in spring 2018, is the second location of Camelback Sandwich & Espresso, a popular neighborhood sandwich shop sought out by locals and overseas visitors alike.
Whereas their first location serves up sandwiches made using baguettes from a number of local bakeries, this second one uses French sourdough instead. There is a variety of options, including the sardine sandwich (1,300 yen) is topped with coriander and thinly sliced onions and myoga, and the BLT Tokyo style (1,300 yen) is made using domestically-grown pork.
The coffee here is excellent, with the most popular drink being the Immortal Latte, made with vanilla (600 yen, tax incl). Personally I also recommend the rich chai tea latte (500 yen, tax incl).
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CAMELBACK Rich Valley
9.Epilogue
In this article I’ve written about food destinations worth seeking out in the Yoyogi-Koen/Oku-Shibu area. In GOURMET & LIFESTYLE #009, columnist HANA will write about bakeries, confectioners, and chocolate specialty stores in the same neighborhood.
