1.Our Theme This Week, #FridaysForFuture
The hashtag topic for the third episode of our 2019 season was #FridaysForFuture.
Fridays For Future is a large-scale movement of school students who are demanding action to address global warming inspired by the Swedish teen activist Greta Thunberg. Since August 2018, Thunberg has skipped school every Friday to conduct sit-ins and protests in front of the Swedish parliament and beyond. Her posts on Twitter and Instagram quickly drew attention from around the world, and the school strike expanded to Germany, Belgium the U.K., and other parts of Europe, as well as to the U.S. and Australia. Ever since, students—mostly high school students—have carried on the strike every Friday. It’s worth noting that the movement is centered on Western countries influenced by Christianity.
In the U.S., the push to demand action to address global warming has been growing, galvanized by the Trump administration’s announcement in June 2017 that the U.S. would be withdrawing from the Paris Agreement. Then in 2018, California was beset by the deadliest wildfire in its history, and on the opposite end of the country, the Florida panhandle was pummeled by Hurricane Michael, Statistics show that more and more Americans are worried about global warming.
In this article I’ll be going over some of the figures that have shaped environmental movement in the U.S., and how the movement itself—and the terminology used to define it—have changed along with the times.
2.The Romanticists and Naturalists of the 19th Century and First Half of the 20th Century
Environmentalism in the U.S. has its roots in American thinkers of the 19th century. Greatly influenced by the European romanticists of the 18th and 19th centuries, they emphasized sensitivity to the natural world and subjectivity. Their focus was not on the “environment"; rather, it was on beauty and the divine as seen in nature and the wilderness.
One of those thinkers was Ralph Waldo Emerson. In his 1836 essay “Nature", Emerson put forth the idea that nature was emblematic of the divine, and living in society was making us take nature for granted. He argues that we can only truly know the beauty of nature by getting away from society and experiencing (not observing, but engaging with all of our sense and becoming one with) nature in solitude. To him, to know that beauty was a spiritual experience of the divine.
Thinker Henry David Thoreau—who read “Nature" while he was attending Harvard College and became closely acquainted with Emerson—took Emerson’s philosophy and expanded on it. Encouraged by him and his teachings on solitude and self-reliance, he spent more than two years staying in a small cabin in the woods by Walden Pond in Massachusetts, living almost entirely off the land. He wrote about his experiences and the beauty of nature in his seminal book Walden, which would greatly influence the environmental movement to come. In his writings, he also put forth the idea that untamed nature, removed from civilization and society, was emblematic of freedom, and that humans could gain autonomy and learn to be freethinkers by experiencing the wildness of nature. In this way Thoreau justified civil disobedience and greatly inspired 20th century political and social activists such as Mahatma Gandhi.
Thoreau’s writings deeply moved the Scottish-American naturalist John Muir, another key figure of environmentalism in the U.S. Muir recognized the human conceit inherent to the individualism and self-reliance extolled by transcendentalism, and advocated a more ecocentric and biocentric view: a symbiotic relationship between humans and nature. The settlement of the American frontier and the gold rush brought an influx of people to the West Coast, and as plans moved forward for the reclamation of the vast wilderness, Muir argued passionately for its preservation. He devoted his life to protecting America’s natural lands, especially the Sierra Nevadas, a mountain range that runs along California’s eastern border. For that reason, he is remembered as the father of America’s national park system.
By contrast, Gifford Pinchot, a Republican politician and the first Chief of the United States Forest Service, held the view that our natural environment was a resource, and that “wise use" of that resource would constitute the “highest use" of nature. To take an extreme view, for preservationists like Muir, there was inherent value in nature itself; for conservationists like Pinchot, the value was in how renewable natural resources could be used—in a sustainable manner—for human benefit. As the frontier was settled and developed in the second half of the 19th century and early 20th century, this point would prove to be a divisive one for the environmentalism.
The photographer Ansel Adams is another important figure of the environmental movement in the U.S. Born in San Francisco, at 17 he joined the Sierra Club—an environmental organization founded by Muir—and explored the Sierra Nevadas as a mountaineer as he honed his photography skills. His aesthetic is characterized by sharp focus, rich tonal detail, and the meticulous effort he put into development. The resulting photographs capture the majesty of the natural lands that Muir fought so hard to preserve, and played an integral role in drawing attention to environmental issues.
3.The Hippies and Tree Huggers of the Second Half of the 20th Century
By the 1960s, the word “environmentalism” had come into widespread use. Environmentalism is an umbrella term that encompasses both preservationism and conservationism, and has at its root a drive to address environmental issues such as air and water pollution. As industrialization and deforestation progressed, environmentalists—who had up to that point focused on protecting the country’s natural lands—began appealing for political policies to address environmental pollution.
This new form of environmentalism developed alongside—and indeed, overlaps in many ways with—the hippie movement of the 60s. The hippie movement was a counterculture movement partly centered in San Francisco that drew inspiration from Thoreau’s message of free thought. Hippies grew their hair long and wore jeans and sandals (or went barefoot) as a way to question the societal norms, Men grew out their beards, and women went braless and without makeup. They got their clothes at secondhand shops, and practiced a lifestyle that was in direct opposition to corporate culture and consumerism. They sang the praises of the back-to-the-land movement, organic farming, and alternative sources of energy, and adopting the iconic peace symbol, advocated for pacifism, an end to war, and civil rights. They conducted sit-ins and protests, cultivating a culture of activism that continues to serve as the foundation for movements like #FridaysForFuture.
However, the lifestyles and actions of hippies and environmentalists would rub some the wrong way. Those anti-hippies and anti-environmentalists would come to adopt the epithet “tree hugger”. The term “tree hugger” has its roots in India, where activist women resorted to hugging trees in order to protest and prevent them from being cut down. But as anti-hippie sentiment grew, the word became a derogatory term for environmentalists.
For example, the word came to connote misanthropy: if a tree hugger was someone who loved nature, then that must mean that they hate humans—as if love for nature and love for humankind were mutually exclusive. Tree huggers were also painted as socially awkward, similar to how otaku are portrayed today.
Furthermore, in America’s male-dominated society, the act of hugging has long been associated with mothers and children, an effeminate and sentimental act. In other words, to call a woman a tree hugger would be misogynistic, and to call a man a tree hugger was to insinuate that they were not a man—or to put it more plainly, that they were homosexual.
In this way, those opposed to the hippie movement and environmentalism painted those who advocated for environmental issues as weak and unworthy of being taken seriously. Those negative associations remain to some degree to this day, although recently more and more environmentalists are taking back and embracing the term tree hugger, reimbuing it with its original resolve.
4.The Conceit of Those Who Believe They Can "Save the World"
In the decades that followed the 60s, various issues stemming from environmental pollution started coming to light. In 1970s, the United States Environmental Protection Agency was established, and the depletion of the ozone layer—which acts as a shield that absorbs most of the harmful ultraviolet rays from the sun—became a global issue. The main cause was determined to be manufactured chemicals—specifically chlorofluorocarbons, which were in wide use in refrigerants and aerosol spray products—and ozone loss was seen as a major threat, resulting in increased rates of skin cancer.
In the 80s, acid rain and groundwater pollution became the environmental issues of the day. The debate regarding nuclear power also reached a peak, with the Three Mile Island accident in 1979, and the Chernobyl disaster in 1986. By the end of the 80s, the fight to save the rainforest was underway.
In the 90s, global warming became an issue that transcended national borders. These days the term “global warming” is seen as interchangeable with “climate change”, but growing up I distinctly remember the former being the predominant term being talked about—as well as the one we learned in science class. Kids—myself included—feared that the Earth was on its way to becoming one massive sauna.
Then in the 2000s, “climate change” came into widespread use—about a fifty-fifty split with “global warming”. In recent years, however “climate change” seems to have become the preferred term. I imagine that has something to do with the fact that “global warming” sounds like a steady, linear rise in temperature (which can be “debunked” by the odd cold spell), while “climate change” more accurately characterizes a planet beset by the myriad effects of environmental pollution.
It was against the backdrop of the global warming debate that former U.S. Vice President Al Gore captivated a nation and the world with the 2006 documentary An Inconvenient Truth. While many have criticized the way the film exaggerates its presentation of data as fear mongering, it is inarguable that the film raised awareness around the world regarding environmental issues.
As a result of all of these environmental movements and efforts, people are increasingly conscious about leading an eco-friendly lifestyle that minimizes personal carbon footprint. (These types of lifestyles are sometimes called lifestyles of health and sustainability, or LOHAS.) And our environmental vocabulary has expanded accordingly. For example, people who prefer to eat foods that are grown and produced locally are known as “locavores". People who seek out partners who share their eco-friendly lifestyles are known as “ecosexuals". An awareness of environmental issues has become integrated into the very fabric of our social lives.
From a different standpoint, however, it can be argued that it’s not so much that adherents revere nature or the environment; rather, they are using nature and the environment as causes through which to define their own identity. The conceit that nature is under the domination of human beings can also be seen in slogans of the environmental movement like “Save the planet".
In this way, words can be used to express who we are, or used as weapons to diminish others. And it is important to remember that they are also tools that we use to put our environment and our planet under our dominion.
5.What Living in Japan Has Taught Me
Back when I was a teenager living in the States, I lived under the assumption that nature and humankind were at odds with one another, and environmental issues existed as a way to overcome that adversarial relationship.
I didn’t realize that the notion of “taking care of nature and the environment" inherently draws a distinction between our environment and us.
Ever since I graduated from college and moved to Japan, however, I’ve increasingly come to realize that humans are inherently a part of nature and their environment.
In the monotheistic Christian-dominated cultures of the west, humankind and nature are concepts that are in opposition to one another. However, in cultures defined by Shinto, Hinduism, and Buddhism—all polytheistic religions—the unification of humans and nature is seen as good.
Over the ten-plus years I’ve lived in Japan, I’ve experienced numerous natural disasters, such as the 2011 Tohoku earthquake, but I’ve also experienced the many blessings of nature. Namely, subtle seasonal changes throughout the year, and how that fosters the delicate seasonality of food ingredients.
In the U.S., the notion of helping those who are less fortunate and engaging in volunteer work often stems from Christian beliefs. When you look at something like the outpouring of support in Japan for those affected by natural disasters, the bonds appear to sprout spontaneously—naturally.
This notion is perhaps best embodied in Emperor Emeritus Akihito of Japan, who has aged with grace and abdicated at the end of April 2019. He stands in contrast to the kind of wealthy Americans who attempt to retain the appearance of youth for as long as inhumanly possible.
6.My Wardrobe This Week
Yellow chinos by Brooks Brothers
Beige socks by Tabio
Red jacket by Zerbino
This jacket was also designed with that playfulness in mind. Taking a cue from what seems to be in these days, I asked for the jacket to be cut a little bit on the shorter side. Also, the jacket was made using a Neapolitan style finish: “manica camicia", where the sleeve of the jacket is set into the armhole like it is on a dress shirt. (On most shirts it is simply flat.) The technique creates a light, comfortable feel that is easy to move around in.
As for the rest of the jacket, I went for a three-roll-two design with hip pockets attached from the outside. The plain woven red wool is very soft, and the texture of the finished product is even better.
Red button down shirt by Shibuya Seibu
The fabric is from Lanvin, a time-honored fabric maker founded in Paris, France. The brand is beloved by celebrities around the world, and I can see why—there’s an elegant feel to the material. This is the kind of shirt I’d love to wear to a casual party or other celebratory occasion.
I didn’t notice at the time I picked out the fabric, but looking at the delivered shirt it’s clear it has a sheen to it, and a graceful drape that bespeaks of quality. Any fabric that captivates in bundled form, sitting on the display shelves, will only become more impressive when it realizes its full potential as a shirt.
Square wooden cufflinks by MFYS
7.Epilogue: Notes From My Stylist Scarlet on This Ensemble
As KAZOO has mentioned numerous times in the past, the show is shot against a bluescreen—meaning that his wardrobe cannot contain any blue.
Another wardrobe consideration for television is that certain stripes and checkered patterns result in a moiré effect—meaning its usually best to avoid them altogether.
What’s more, the computer-generated background for the show makes ample use of primary colors, making it difficult to put together an ensemble that compliments or contrasts with the palette.
These were the considerations behind all of the ensembles I put together for KAZOO for the 2018 season. Although challenging, I feel like I have finally gotten a grasp of the kind of looks that work well for the show.
This week, I built an ensemble around a pair of yellow chinos from Brooks Brothers that KAZOO got along with the pink ones her wore last week.
Normally I would try to use a lighter color on top, but because of the computer-generated background, I went with a red button down shirt and deep red jacket to provide more of a contrast.
The look would certainly be a little much, a little too loud to wear about town, but it is just right for the set of the show.
For this week, both the MC Haruhi-san and co-pilot Gori-san wore low-key beige-colored outfits, and KAZOO’s colorful ensemble proved to be just right in terms of bringing balance to the show.
In the interstitial skit, Gori-san’s shoes and KAZOO’s shoes seemed to be trying to out-shine each other—the best kind of entertainment for a stylist like me.
