1.Prologue
Although the perceived duration of spring and fall have become shorter due to global warming, the island nation of Japan continues to enjoy four distinct seasons.
As unpleasant as certain seasonal phenomena—hay fever in spring and brutal heat in the summer—have become in recent years, the changing of the seasons gives us a shifting landscape, different seasonal foods, and many other seasonal pleasures.
The winter cold is one of these seasonal pleasures. It is the cold, for example, that makes nabemono—Japanese hot pot dishes—so delicious. And the winter cold, coupled with Japan’s mountainous topography, has blessed the nation with many ski resorts. From Tokyo it is possible to travel to full-scale ski resorts in the Joetsu and Shin'etsu regions (Niigata and Nagano Prefectures) in just a few hours.
I’ve enjoyed skiing for over 50 years myself, and I can attest to the fact that Japan’s ski resorts have greatly improved both in terms of facilities and services. These days they are just about comparable to their counterparts in the Americas and Europe.
While the quality of snow at many ski resorts on Japan’s main island of Honshu is by no means perfect, there is pristine snow to be found in places like Zao and Appi/Shizukuishi in the Tohoku (Northeastern) region. And the powder snow at Hokkaido ski resorts like Niseko—hugely popular with foreign visitors—is world-class.
And what about Tokyo winters? Japan has a mountain range that runs down the spine of Honshu, which means that winter in Tokyo is largely clear and moderately cold—save for some heavy snow once every few years (although the frequency of such occurrences in recent years has come as a surprise). Thanks to this climate, Tokyo is the ideal environment for enjoying a variety of winter outerwear.
Temperature-wise, you won’t get anything as extreme as the thirty-below and forty-below winters you get in places like Canada and Northern Europe; at the same time it isn’t the kind of biting cold that hits New York and London.
Public transportation in Tokyo is arguably the most advanced in the world, and the completion of the (labyrinthine) subway network means that in central Tokyo, there aren’t many situations that require walking long distances out in the open.
Cold weather in Tokyo is the ideal kind for donning your favorite coat or jacket. So put on your quality tweed jacket, cashmere scarf, and soft leather gloves.
Today I’ve put together a selection of brands and shops that specialize in the kind of outerwear perfect for savoring these Tokyo winters.
2.Mackintosh
Mackintosh is a time-honored British outerwear brand with 200 years of history, beginning with the invention of waterproof fabric by Scottish chemist Charles Macintosh in the latter half of the industrial revolution.
The rubberized classic Mackintosh coat, which features fully taped seams glued with a special adhesive for a waterproof seal, is an iconic raincoat for both men and women. In addition to repelling water, it’s wind-resistant and insulated, making it a great way to stay comfortable outdoors in the cold, dry months.
Mackintosh’s quilted nylon jackets are another icon of British men’s style, and the white “MACKINTOSH" lettering on the round buttons instantly set it apart. The brand also sells duffle coats, trench coats, down jackets, and knitwear for both men and women.
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MACKINTOSH GINZA SIX STORE
3.Barbour
Barbour was founded in 1894 in South Shields, England as an outerwear brand making clothing for fisherman and dock workers. Its waxed jackets, made using wax-coated cotton, featured superb water-repellency and heat-retention, and were beloved as workwear in the rainy British climate.
As the 20th century went on, it became more of a countrywear staple. In the 1980s it introduced two of its now-classic models: the Bedale equestrian jacket, and the Beaufort field coat for hunters and fishermen. Iconic Barbour detailing includes hip-height bellows pockets, handwarmer pockets, corduroy collar, brass zipper, and Barbour tartan check lining.
Recently the brand has released a number of unwaxed jackets at affordable prices, but the brand’s heart and soul can be found in savoring how your waxed jacket ages over time. As the oil coating can accidentally rub off on other fabrics that it comes in contact to, waxed jackets are not ideal for riding packed trains. Add to that the fact that attention is required when it comes to storage and maintenance. But for those willing to put in the time and effort, you’ll be rewarded with a jacket that truly feels like your own.
Barbour also holds a number of Royal Warrants. In the 80s the brand became popular among young well-to-do British women after Princess Diana wore the brand. More recently, both the Duchess of Cambridge and the Duchess of Sussex have been seen wearing Barbour jackets, and the brand is beloved by many British celebrities. These days, the countrywear brand has garnered a reputation as stylish urban wear.
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Barbour Daikanyama
4.Canada Goose
Canada Goose is an outerwear brand founded in 1957 in Toronto, Canada. Since its beginnings it has produced products for explorers, mountaineers, and researchers that venture into some of the most extreme environments on Earth.
The brand’s iconic Expedition Parka is made using premium duck down feathers for superior moisture-retention and insulation. The jackets are available in a variety of colors—black, royal blue, red, military green, and more. Look for the instantly identifiable circular Artic Program patch on the arm.
Ever since Canada Goose’s Tokyo flagship opened in Sendagaya in 2017, it’s Japan sales have taken off, and its products have been coveted by everybody who’s anybody in the fashion and entertainment industry. The terraced interior of the store is designed like the arctic tundra or an iceberg. As it is at least a ten-minute walk from the nearest train stations—Sendagaya Station along the JR line, and Kitasando along Tokyo Metro—each trip is a kind of mini-expedition.
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Canada Goose Sendagaya
5.Herno
Herno is a luxury outerwear and athleisure brand founded in Italy in 1948. It opened its first Japan store in Osaka in 1971, and grew into a global brand throughout the 80s and 90s.
The brand started as a raincoat maker for men and women, but nowadays it’s known for its many classic designs, including its cashmere coats and the iconic A-Line down jacket. After the turn of the millennium, it began incorporating the kind of functional fabrics used in sportswear into its lineup, introducing refined designs for urban living.
Starting the 2018 fall/winter season, it has offered a Resort Collection, featuring sporty yet elegant designs sure to bring an air of relaxation to days surrounded by the hustle and bustle of the city.
The flagship store in Minami-Aoyama evokes a spacious living room, with armchairs, sofas, and even a fireplace. The signature jackets are displayed not on hangers but on leather and steel hooks—creating an atmosphere like you’ve just come home to your cottage in the Alps.
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Herno Aoyama
6.Moncler
Moncler is a luxury clothing and down jacket brand that was founded in France in 1952. It is currently based in Italy.
Its world-class down jackets, beloved by alpinists and skiers, are individually made by craftspeople, and the brand has been given the “4Flocons" certification by AFNOR (the French Association for Standardization) in recognition of the quality of its products. The tricolor (red, blue, white) logo depicts a French rooster, announcing its identity as a French brand with pride.
The classic down jacket Everest is highly functional but boasts a slim silhouette. It rose to fame in Japan in 2005 when a certain popular entertainer wore the jacket in a television commercial. The refined design inspired consumers to wear the down jacket over a business suit—not something you saw often at the time, but in Japan, it caught on.
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Moncler Aoyama
7.Burberry
Burberry is a luxury British brand founded in 1856. The company’s first success was its raincoats, which were developed after founder Thomas Burberry invented a twill-woven fabric called gabardine that was waterproof yet breathable.
The iconic Burberry trench coat was developed as a waterproof coat for British officers to wear in the trenches of the First World War. Elements of that original design still remain today: the ornamental patches on the shoulders, called epaulets, were used to display insignia, and the D-rings on the belt in the back were used to hold ammunition pouches and grenades.
Side note, the signature Burberry check—camel, black, white, and red—was first used in the lining for trench coats. In 1967 the pattern made its way onto scarves and other accessories, and has since become synonymous with the brand.
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Burberry Omotesando
8.TATRAS
Tatras is a luxury down jacket brand based in Milan and run by a triumvirate of companies from Italy, Poland, and Japan.
The popular Kraz features a distinctive shiny nylon sheen that has made it a hit among choi-waru oyaji (middle-aged men with the heart of a bad boy), while the Politeama features a flattering shape that has made it a hit with women.
The down jackets bring together Italian craftsmanship, quality white goose down from Poland, and Japanese design sensibilities, and are great for a variety of occasions, as casual wear or for your day off.
The brand’s flagship is located in the basement of the Tatras & Strada Est store along Kotto Street in Aoyama. They carry a wide range of products from the men’s and women’s lines, as well as for kids.
