1.Prologue
In my last entry I wrote about my favorite cafes in the neighborhood. This week I will write about diners/bistros perfect for enjoying an evening drink, whether you’re alone or with a group.
2.Ahiru Store
It was right around the time that Ahiru Store opened in 2008 that the Tomigaya neighborhood began to develop a reputation as a chic, slightly upscale destination.
Ahiru Store is run by a brother and sister team, who serve up bio wines and homemade bread in a hip atmosphere. After opening its doors it quickly became a neighborhood hotspot for creatives and foodies, and today it continues to be packed on a daily basis.
In addition to the fantastic wines and the bread, there is plenty more to write home about—the pork and chicken liver pate is exquisitely balanced, and the soy sauce-based avocado and octopus salad is delicious. My favorite is the deep-fried bread with seaweed and shrimp—a chewy, mouth-watering delight.
The cozy space has counter seating for about eight, as well as a few wine barrels that double as tables for diners who don’t mind standing. Reservations can be made, but diners must arrive between 18:00-18:30. More importantly, bookings are difficult to get, and often have to be made at least a month in advance.
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AHIRU STORE
3.Cristiano's
Cristiano’s is a wonderful Portuguese restaurant off of the main thoroughfare along Yoyogi-Hachiman and Yoyogi-Koen stations. Eight years since it first opened its doors, it continues to be a popular destination for diners from far and wide.
The menu features traditional Portuguese fare prepared using a healthy dose of Japanese ingredients and cooking techniques for a simple, down-home flavor that feels somehow familiar even to Japanese diners. The main offerings are dishes made with homemade bacalhau (dried and salted cod), alongside regional Portuguese specialties served tapas style, like the Portuguese-style beef stew, the francesinha (an outrageously rich meat sandwich), and the octopus tempura.
Diners can also enjoy many Portuguese wines at reasonable prices, with the highlight being Vinho Verde, a slightly fizzy drink with lower alcohol content than standard wines.
In 2013, Cristiano’s opened Nata de Cristiano, a pastry shop selling delectable Portuguese egg tarts, near the Issey Miyake offices by Yoyogi Park. And in 2014, it opened Mar de Cristiano, a Portuguese seafood restaurant just 30 seconds from Yoyogi-Hachiman and Yoyogi-Koen stations.
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Cristiano's
Nata de Cristiano
Mar de Cristiano
4.PATH
Tomigaya has long been home to a number of great bakeries, but it has always lacked good breakfast options. Path, which opened along the neighborhood’s main thoroughfare (adjacent to Yoyogi-Hachiman and Yoyogi-Koen stations) in 2015, has filled that void, quickly becoming a prime breakfast spot for local residents and workers alike.
My favorite way to start off the day is to take a seat at the counter, which is bathed in natural light coming in from the glass facade, and savor a “Dutch Pancake", topped with prosciutto and burrata cheese (1,500 yen plus tax).
Around 8:30, croissants and pain de campagne—the latter made using homemade natural yeast—start to appear on the shelves, as well as French pastries like financiers and canelé. Perfect for getting some mid-afternoon snacks before heading off to work. The croissants are especially popular, and often sell out by lunchtime—so the earlier the better!
At night, Path serves up delightful dinner courses (6,800 yen plus tax). For those in the mood for lighter fare, pair a glass of wine or craft beer with some of the a la carte options. The chef and pastry chef, who came up together at the same French restaurant—blur the lines between cuisines and forge their own path at this cool bistro.
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PATH
5.OSTU
Ostu is an osteria (a modest type of Italian restaurant) near the West Gate of Yoyogi Park that serves up dishes from the Piedmont region of northwest Italy and choice wines.
For lunch there is a 3,800 yen course and 6,000 yen course; for dinner there is a 7,500 yen course as well as a la carte options (all prices include tax). The raviolone—a large ravioli stuffed with a whole egg yolk and topped with butter, cheese, and plenty of white truffles—is especially exquisite.
For reservations of four or more, try the Piedmontese “Fassone" beef charcoal grilled T-bone steak, which is lean but incredibly rich. (12,000 yen per steak in addition to cost of course; order must be placed at least three days in advance.)
Ostu is perfect for dates or low-key family celebrations.
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OSTU
6.Petit Bateau
Petit Bateau is a small, cozy eatery with counter seating for eight along the Kamiyamacho commercial street that leads from Tokyu Department Store towards Yoyogi-Hachiman Station. Diners are in store for a low-key dinner show as the owner/chef prepares proper French dishes right in front of them. There are many menu options that fill the chalkboard in the store, but I recommend first-time guests start with the hors d'oeuvre platter (2,500 yen plus tax) and order more appetizers and main dishes as you go along. Look for the striking facade, which has a turquoise door flanked by piles of firewood.
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Petit Bateau
7.Mimet
Mimet is a cafe bistro in a renovated old Japanese home down a couple of off-streets from the main thoroughfare along Yoyogi-Hachiman and Yoyogi-Koen stations. Lunch is served until 16:30, and includes pasta, omelet, sandwich, and meat dish options, all served with salad, soup, and homemade bread. The atmosphere is cozy and laid-back. Then at 18:00, the establishment becomes a hip place for discerning diners. The seasonal dishes pair very well with the wine options. For dessert, the seasonal tart and the homemade ice cream are very popular. My favorite is the fluffy Japanese-style hotcake served in a Nanbu Tekki iron skillet (700 yen plux tax). Mimet is also known for shaved ice—available only in the summer months.
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Mimet
8.iL-CHIANTI Yoyogi Koen
Il-Chianti Yoyogi Koen is a branch of Chianti, the long-established casual Italian eatery in Sasazuka. Despite its location along Tomigaya’s main thoroughfare, the interior has a quiet, cozy atmosphere removed from the bustle outside. There is a varied selection of delicious pasta options, and I always find it a challenge to settle on one; usually I go with the Midnight Spaghetti, a signature Chianti soup pasta with just the right amount of garlic and a spicy kick. They also carry a great selection of wines, starting at the 1,000 yen range. And last but not least, the in-house dressing is a blend of 16 ingredients that has been called “droplets of magic", and once you taste their salad you’ll understand why diners come from far and wide just for a taste.
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iL-CHIANTI Yoyogi Koen
9.Epilogue
In this article I wrote about my favorite diners and bistros in the Yoyogi-Koen/Oku-Shibu area. In GOURMET & LIFESTYLE #008 I’ll be writing about the one-of-a-kind places worth seeking out in the neighborhood.
