1.The Perils of Overtourism
The theme for the September 13th episode of Sekai e Hasshin! SNS Eigojutsu on NHK E-Tele was #Overtourism.
Overtourism is where there are more visitors than the infrastructure of a host destination can adequately handle. As a result, visitors may get a negative impression of that city or country, and draw the anger of the locals with their very presence. Overtourism ultimately has a negative effect on both the reputation of an area and its economy.
The prefix over- means more than or too much, as in overcrowded (containing too many people or things), overpriced (worth less than the price being charged), and overact (when an actor performs with too much energy or emotion, in a way that makes their performance feel false). In Japanese, the loanword oobaa (オーバー, over) is used to mean too much.
On the show our resident commentator Sasaki Toshinao-san talked about various examples of overtourism from around the globe. First, he recounted his 2017 trip to Cuba, where he visited a number of locations famous for having been patronized by none other than the American writer Ernest Hemingway. He said the line of waiting customers in front of one bar was dispiritingly long, and at another it was so bad that he just gave up.
He also talked about Mount Everest, where the overissuing of climbing permits led to congestion in the so-called “death zone"—everything above 8,000 meters. In some cases, climbers were forced to wait for more than 12-hours to reach the summit, resulting in a string of deaths. In response, the Nepalese government announced that it would be setting new regulations that would require climbers to prove that they’ve scaled another major peak before being issued a permit.
Meanwhile in Paris, France, more and more visitors flock to the Louvre to catch a glimpse of Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. This summer, the iconic painting was temporarily moved to a different gallery (until mid-October) while its usual home is being revamped. The move created a series of bottlenecks, spawning longer lines and general confusion, and requiring visitors to pre-book timed slots in order to guarantee access. In the show, we featured a tweet from a visitor lamenting the fact that they were unable to fully appreciate the work after being barked at to move along immediately.
In June, a massive cruise liner rammed into a smaller tourist boat and a wharf on a canal in Venice, injuring five. The elusive street artist Banksy parodied the state of affairs with an oil painting depicting the Venetian skyline being almost completely obstructed by a colossal cruise ship.
We also talked about sound pollution caused by wheeled luggage, problems with garbage, and other breaches of etiquette and no-nos that are part and parcel of overtourism.
It used to be that overseas vacations were out of the reach of the middle and lower-classes, but globalization has changed everything: the internet and social media have made information about foreign destinations readily available, and LCC routes have greatly lowered the bar from a budget perspective. As a result, there has been an influx of tourists in countries all around the globe. The short term benefits for tourist destinations were obvious, but as time goes on it is becoming increasingly clear that overtourism weighs heavily on the local economy, society, and culture.
2.Overtourism in Japan
As the Japanese government strives to meet its goal of 40 million inbound tourists for 2020, the myriad adverse effects of overtourism have begun to manifest themselves across the nation.
The ugly head of overtourism is most pronounced in the city of Kyoto, said to be the second most popular destination for overseas tourists after Tokyo. At hotspots like Kiyomizu-dera, a temple known for its autumn foliage, buses become so overcrowded that riders have to wait several buses before they are finally able to get on—much to the chagrin of local residents. Meanwhile, at Gion, the historical heart of Kyoto, tourists have become like paparazzi, hunting and hounding maiko to get that perfect Instagram-worthy shot. Similar problems with etiquette are abound, so much so that in 2017, organizers decided to cancel a popular night-time cherry blossom viewing event held in the Gion-Shinbashi district.
In recent years, Japan’s ancient capital of Nara has also been in the spotlight for its deer, which are symbols of the city and designated as national treasures. There has been an increase in the number of tourists that have been bitten or charged at after provoking the animals while feeding them shika sembei (鹿せんべい, or “deer crackers”). In response, the prefecture has put up signs in English, Chinese, and Japanese that provide instructions as to how the deer should be fed.
Then there’s Mt. Fuji, the symbol of Japan, and the subject of the saying “A wise man climbs Mt. Fuji once. Only a fool climbs it twice.” The problem of trash being left on the ground along climbing paths and in restrooms gets worse and worse with each passing year; critics point to the fact that overseas tourists aren’t necessarily familiar with the Japanese custom of taking your trash home with you.
Overtourism is a problem affecting more than just the popular tourist traps. In 2012, a ramen joint called Seiryuken in Hakodate, Hokkaido was awarded the designation of Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide. The honor was a double-edged sword, however, as the subsequent influx of visitors made the restaurant less of a hole-in-the-wall for regulars and more of a tourist destination. Dismayed by the pressures of daily prep and at the end of his rope, the owner ended up closing up shop in 2018. What’s more, as overseas visitors tend to consult such guidebooks and social media to gather their intel, they tend to flock to the same food destinations—a popular example is the pork bone broth ramen chain Ichiran.
The news of the ramen joint in Hakodate closing down left me in a contemplative mood. When it comes to food, many of the foreigners around me like to turn to the internet hivemind for recommendations. For the person making the recommendations, it is important to consider that what you say may end up planting the seeds of overtourism. While I am certainly eager to share my recommendations with friends, the possibility that it may end up spelling doom for some establishments is a frightening one that gives me pause. The internal struggle is real.
3.What Overseas Tourists Are Looking for
Now let’s look at a few tourism-related key phrases and buzzwords that speak to what overseas tourists are seeking when they visit Japan.
●tourist trap
Tourists are always looking to avoid tourist traps: places that attract and exploit tourists by overcharging them for products and services and entertainment.
●hole-in-the-wall
A hole-in-the-wall is a small, unpretentious restaurant or other establishment that is usually out of the way—off the beaten track. The equivalent Japanese term is the literal translation anaba (穴場).
●off the beaten path
While Japanese tourists prefer tour packages and traveling in groups, overseas tourists like to explore off the beaten path—to “discover" the kind of gems that are not as well known outside of the local community.
●authenticity
Overseas tourists love all things and experiences that are authentic. The problem lies in the fact that for many foreigners, “authentic" Japan is an exotic country of samurai, ninja, and robots.
●like a local
On a first visit to a new country, tourists should get all of the “touristy" things out of the way. Repeat visitors earn the right to stay away from the tourist traps and explore the deep end, culturally speaking. This is partly why services like Airbnb—an online marketplace for offering homestays—have become so popular.
●experience tourism
Experienced travelers are not so much interested in seeing the sights, buying souvenirs, and general consumption. Instead, they seek out experiences.
●responsible and sustainable tourism
In recent years, more and more tourists have become conscious of the economic, social, and ecological footprint they leave at each destination, and seek to make a positive impact with their travels. In Japan’s case, the question I hear most often from foreigners is “Why do Japanese people use so much plastic in packaging? It’s a penetrating observation, especially given Japan’s reputation for valuing nature.
4.My Wardrobe This Week
Off-white double-breasted jacket by Azabu Tailor
White linen shirt by Azabu Tailor
Gray trousers by Brooks Brothers
“Reims" black loafers by Paraboot
